November in Kyoto is magical. The summer crowds have thinned, the maple leaves (momiji) are turning brilliant shades of red and orange, and the ancient temples seem to exist in their own timeless reality.
I spent a week there, walking slowly, taking photos, and trying to understand why this city feels so different from anywhere else.
Fushimi Inari at Dawn
I woke up at 5 AM to catch the first train to Fushimi Inari Taisha. The shrine is famous for its thousands of vermillion torii gates that wind up the mountainside.
What the guides donât tell you: Most tourists photograph the iconic gate tunnel and leave. But if you climb for 45 minutes to the summit, youâll find yourself completely alone with a view over Kyoto at sunrise.
The gates form a tunnel of orange light. The morning air is cool and still. Thereâs a kind of meditation in the repetitive rhythm of walking through gate after gate after gate.
Practical note: Bring water. The climb is real. Wear comfortable shoes.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
The famous bamboo forest is stunning but crowded. Hereâs the secret:
Arrive at 7 AM, before the tour buses. The bamboo towers overhead, filtering the light into a green glow. The wind makes the stalks creak and sway. It feels primordial.
By 10 AM, itâs wall-to-wall tourists. The magic evaporates.
Better alternative: Walk 15 minutes north to Okochi Sanso Villa. Itâs a traditional villa with immaculate gardens, a tea house, and bamboo groves that are nearly empty. Entry is „1,000 and includes matcha tea.
Philosopherâs Path
A 2km stone path along a canal, lined with hundreds of cherry trees that become brilliant red in autumn. It connects Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) to Nanzen-ji Temple.
I walked it on a Thursday morning. An elderly Japanese woman was sketching the canal. A cat sunned itself on a stone wall. Students cycled past on rusty bicycles.
This is the Kyoto I came for: not the Instagram version, but the quiet everyday beauty.
Stop at: Nearby cafes serve fresh matcha ice cream and traditional sweets. Try kuzukiri (transparent noodles in syrup) at one of the traditional tea houses.
Ryoan-ji: The Zen Rock Garden
Fifteen rocks arranged in a sea of white gravel. Thatâs it. Thatâs the entire garden.
I sat on the wooden veranda for 30 minutes, just looking. The longer you sit, the more you see: the careful placement, the way the rocks seem to float, the negative space that becomes as important as the stones themselves.
Meditation on design: The garden is designed so you can never see all fifteen rocks from any one position. No matter where you stand, one is always hidden. A reminder of imperfection, incompleteness.
Lesson for builders: What you leave out is as important as what you include.
Kiyomizu-dera at Night
During autumn, Kiyomizu-dera offers special night viewings. The temple is illuminated, and a blue light beam shoots into the sky symbolizing the Bodhisattvaâs mercy.
The wooden stage, 13 meters above the hillside, offers a view over Kyotoâs lights. Couples write wishes on wooden tablets. The air smells of incense.
Worth it? Yes. The daytime crowds are intense, but the night viewing is magical. The city sprawls below, modern and ancient at once.
Food Notes
Some memorable meals:
Nishiki Market: Kyotoâs 400-year-old food market. Try:
- Fresh yuba (tofu skin)
- Tsukemono (pickled vegetables)
- Grilled mochi on a stick
Ippudo Ramen (Kawaramachi): Rich tonkotsu broth. Arrive before 6 PM or wait 45+ minutes.
Kissaki (near Gion): Tiny standing bar serving fresh sushi. No reservations. „3,000 for incredible quality. The chefâs selection is always right.
Kurasu Kyoto: Third-wave coffee that rivals Tokyo. Perfect for slow mornings with a notebook.
Observations
On Tourism
Kyoto is over-touristed, but itâs also massive. The trick is timing and location:
- Early mornings are always quiet
- Weekdays beat weekends
- North and east Kyoto are less crowded than south and west
- Walk instead of taking buses. Youâll find hidden temples.
On Seasons
Autumn (late November) is peak momiji (maple leaves) season. The city explodes in color. But itâs also peak tourist season.
Alternative: Early December still has some color, but 70% fewer tourists.
On Pace
Kyoto rewards slowness. Donât try to âdoâ five temples in one day. Pick one temple, one garden, one meal. Sit. Walk. Look.
The beauty is in the details: moss on stone, light through leaves, the sound of gravel underfoot.
Equipment Notes
For photography:
- 35mm or 50mm prime for streets and temples
- Tripod for night shots (Kiyomizu-dera, Fushimi Inari)
- ND filter for silky water in gardens
For comfort:
- Comfortable walking shoes (youâll walk 15-20km/day easily)
- Light backpack (many temples require bag storage)
- Water bottle (fill at temples, convenience stores everywhere)
Would I Return?
Absolutely. There are entire districts I didnât explore. Gardens I missed. Seasons I havenât seen.
Kyoto is a city that rewards return visits. Each time you peel back another layer.
Next time: spring, for the cherry blossoms. Or winter, for the snow-covered temples. Or maybe just autumn again, because those maple leaves stay with you.
Photos from this trip will be shared in a follow-up post. Film is still developing.